First 5 Notes on Flute

The first 5 notes on flute, in teaching order — B, A, G, F and E — with exact fingerings, the thumb lever, the E♭ key habit, and how to get a sound before you play any of them.

Flute beginners start in the middle of the instrument, not at the bottom. Your first five notes are B, A, G, F and E — a descending ladder in the flute's friendly middle register, where the sound is easiest to make and the fingerings change one finger at a time. One habit runs through all five: your right pinky lives on the E♭ key for every one of them. Teachers call it the pinky anchor, and starting it now will save you relearning your hand position later.

Before any fingering matters, you need a sound. Rest the lip plate under your lower lip, roll the flute so the embouchure hole sits centred on the lip, and blow a gentle, focused stream of air across the hole — like blowing across the top of a bottle, because that is literally the physics involved. If nothing happens, roll the flute a fraction toward you or away; the angle matters more than the amount of air. Every beginner spends their first session making bottle noises. That is the correct first session.

1. B (written B4)

Fingering: thumb on the B lever, left index down, right pinky on the E♭ key.

B is first because it is balanced: the flute rests on your left index finger and right thumb, and B's fingering keeps that balance while asking for almost nothing — one main finger down. Your left thumb goes on the B lever, the upper of the two thumb keys (the one that also closes the first finger's key through the mechanism — on most flutes pressing the B lever and the index together is what you see described as "thumb B"). Play long, slow Bs until the tone is steady and clear rather than breathy; this note is your home base for the first weeks.

2. A (written A4)

Fingering: thumb on the plain thumb key, left index and middle down, E♭ pinky on.

From B, two small changes: the thumb slides from the B lever to the regular thumb key beside it, and the left middle finger joins the index. Teachers argue about whether to introduce the thumb change this early; the reason it belongs here is that A is unplayable in tune without it — leaving the thumb on the B lever for A is a shortcut some beginner books allow and every teacher later has to unteach. Do it properly from the start: thumb across, middle finger down, same steady air.

3. G (written G4)

Fingering: thumb (plain key), left 1-2-3 all down, E♭ pinky on.

Add the left ring finger and the left hand is complete. G–A–B is your first ladder: fingers join one at a time as the pitch falls. Play B–A–G–A–B slowly, watching that the left ring finger lands on its key rather than beside it — ring fingers are the least independent fingers you own, and G is where they get their first training. Keep the fingers curved and close to the keys; flute fingers that fly up between notes have to travel back, and travelling fingers are slow fingers.

4. F (written F4)

Fingering: thumb, left 1-2-3, right index down, E♭ pinky on.

Now the right hand joins. The right index finger goes down while the right middle and ring stay up — the same fork shape clarinet players meet, and it feels odd for the same reason: one finger down with a gap beside it. The mistake to avoid is letting the right middle finger sag onto its key "to help." It does not help; it changes the note. F is also where the flute's balance shifts — the right hand now carries more of the work — so check that the instrument is still resting on the left index and chin, not being gripped.

5. E (written E4)

Fingering: thumb, left 1-2-3, right index and middle down, E♭ pinky on.

Add the right middle finger to F and you have E, the fifth note and the bottom of your first ladder. E is the note where beginners discover air speed: it sits lower and speaks more softly, and the temptation is to blow harder, which only makes it harsh. Blow slower and wider — a lazier airstream, aimed a little lower across the hole. Run the full ladder B–A–G–F–E and back up, one breath per direction if you can, and notice that the way down is pure addition: each step adds exactly one finger.

Putting the five together

Five notes, one per finger-change, and you already own several real tunes: "Hot Cross Buns" and "Merrily We Roll Along" live entirely inside B–A–G, and "Ode to Joy" fits once transposed to start on B. More usefully, the B-to-E ladder is the skeleton of the G major scale's top half and appears in nearly every beginner band arrangement ever printed.

Three flute-specific habits to build while the notes are still few:

- The E♭ pinky never leaves its key for these notes — it comes off only for the notes that need it off (D and C at the bottom, and the high E♭s), which you will meet soon enough. Anchor down, always. - Fingers hover. A centimetre above the keys is plenty. Anything more is wasted motion you will pay for at tempo. - Practise the headjoint alone for two minutes a day. If you can make the headjoint sing clearly at two pitches (covered and open), the full flute gets easier every time you pick it up.

The full flute fingering chart covers all 37 notes, including the low C foot and the third octave, when your ladder is ready to grow.

Posture: the unglamorous skill underneath all five notes

Flute tone problems in month one are usually posture problems wearing a disguise. Stand or sit tall, head up, and bring the flute to your face — never duck your face down to the flute. The instrument angles slightly down and to the right, roughly parallel to your lips; your right elbow stays relaxed and away from your body so the right hand can float over its keys instead of gripping. The flute's weight rests on three points — chin, the base of the left index finger, and the right thumb — and if any finger is squeezing, it is doing a job one of those three points should be doing. Squeezing fingers are slow fingers, and they are also the reason wrists ache: a beginner whose wrist hurts is almost always holding the flute up with their fingers instead of letting it rest on the supports. Check your balance every time you pick the instrument up for the first month — play your B, then deliberately let go with the right-hand fingers for a second (over a bed or sofa the first time). If the flute stays put, your balance is right, and every fingering in this guide just got easier.

Try it in the Fingering Finder

Pick an instrument and a note and the diagram updates instantly — filled keys are the ones you press. The same finder sits on every note page, pre-set to that note.

Keep going

More in the fingering guides index, or go straight to the printable fingering charts.

Why does the first flute note use the B lever instead of the normal thumb key?

B is fingered with the thumb on the B lever, which works together with the left index finger. It keeps the flute balanced in the hands and is the standard fingering taught from the first lesson.

Does the right pinky really stay down all the time?

For nearly every note in the first two octaves, yes — the right pinky holds the E♭ key open, which the flute's tuning expects. It lifts for low D and C and a few high notes. Keeping it anchored also stabilises the instrument.

How do I get a sound on the flute at all?

Blow across the embouchure hole, not into it — the same angled airstream you would use on a bottle top. Adjust the roll of the flute under your lip in tiny amounts; angle beats air volume. Practising with the headjoint alone builds this fastest.

What is the fingering for E on flute?

Thumb on the thumb key, left 1-2-3 down, right 1-2 down, and the right pinky on the E♭ key. It is F's fingering plus the right middle finger.